Getting There
For most of history, Edirne has been a stopping point on the road to Istanbul. The Trans European Motorway (TEM) has reduced the time needed to travel the 250km, due west of Istanbul, from a journey of several days on a camel to a 2.5- hour ride by bus or car.
The major sites of Edirne can be covered in one day, however to truly appreciate the city, at least two days are recommended. To prepare this article, I joined 30 other travelers from Istanbul on a one-day tour organized by Fest Travel and led by an expert guide. If you are primarily interested in learning about the history of the city and its mosques, and understand Turkish, then Fest is the way to go. (Customized tours in other languages can also be arranged through Fest.) If, on the other hand, you have a decent guidebook and prefer to explore the city at a more leisurely pace on your own, Edirne is a friendly and easy place to navigate for independent travelers; and comfortable accommodations are available.
History
Founded by the Emperor Hadrian (117-138), the city was an important military stronghold and center of trade with a fertile hinterland and became one of the most important of the Roman Empire. The towns name was later shortened to Adrianopolis and in 1363 changed by its Ottoman conquerors to Edirne. Large numbers of Turks began to settle in Edirne and it was from here that Sultan Bayezid 1 (l3 commanded the first Turkish siege of Constantinople. Even after Constantinople became the capital of the Ottoman Empire Edirne retained its importance as a military base. The sultans spent much of their time in the palace there, which is said to have been as impressive as Topkapı in Istanbul. Unfortunately, only a few ruins of the palace remain today. It wasn’t until the mid l when a great fire and an earthquake devastated the city causing it to lose its popularity and splendor.
What to See & Where to Dine
The Eski Cami (Old Mosque) on Talat Paşa Asfaltı, which exemplifies 01W ot two principal mosque styles used by the Ottomans in their earlier capital, Bursa, is a good place to begin a tour of Edirne. The Eski Camii (1414) has rows of arches and pillars supporting a series of small domes. Inside, there is a marvelous mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) and strikingly huge black-on-white calligraphic inscriptions on the walls. The columns at the front of the mosque were lifted from a Roman building, a common practice over the centuries.
As you exit the mosque, make a left on to Hürriyet Meydanı (Independence Square) where you will find the Bedesten Carşısı or Bedesten Bazaar, which dates from 1418 and was once a major hub for silk and cotton tradesmen. 5611 filled with shops, the market today carries far less impressive goods, ranging from inexpensive knitting yarn and clothing to paperback books, furniture and artificial flowers.
Behind the Bazaar to the east is the Rüstem Paşa Ham, a grand caravanserai built 100 years after the Bedesten. Caravanserais were the hotels of their day, providing accommodation and stabling for merchants and travelers. Built by Mimar Sinan for Süleyman the Magnificent celebrated grand vizier (vezır Rüstem Paşa, it consists of a central rectangular courtyard surrounded by colonnades, behind which are the rooms. Today the building is a 79-room hotel with 145 beds and a Turkish bath (hamam). While the outside of the building ii beautifully restored and landscaped, the rooms are somewhat plain. Alcoholic beverages can be had at the bar off the small courtyard across from reception.
On your way to Uç Şerefeli Cami, which means “mosque with three balconies,” be sure to stop in at Keçecizade, a con on Hürriyet Meydanı. Keçecizade, in business since 1961, is one of a few shops in town which sells almond paste (badem ezmesO, a specialty of Edirne. Shaped into so round bite size pieces and elegantly boxed, the almond paste treats are scrumptious, surprisingly light and not too sweet.
Uç Şerefeli Cami (1447), with its four strikingly different minarets built at different times took seven years to complete. Its design shows the transition from the Seijuk Turkish-style mosques of Konya and Bursa to a truly Ottoman style. Rs wide (24 meter) dome is mounted on a hexagonal drum and supported by two walls and two pillars. Keep this transitional style in mind as you visit Edirne’s other mosques which reflect either earlier or later styles.
If you are in need of a snack at this point, walk across the street from the Cami to a small bakery called Damak Yufka for a deliciously fresh simit (sesame covered bread, similar to a bagel).
Also across Hürriyet Meydanı from the mosque is the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Hamanu (Turkish bath), which was designed by Mimar Sinan. Built in the late l6th century and still in use today, it has separate sections for men and women.
Just outside the entrance to the Alipaşa Carşısı, also a covered Bazaar, is Ezmecioğlu another famous almond paste shop that has been around since 1905. Designed by Mimar Sinan, Alipaşa is located east of Maarif Caddesi (Street) near Saraçlar Caddesi. Built in 1569, it was destroyed by fire in 1992 and restored in 1997. The ambiance is less drab than the Bedesten Bazaar and items for sale range from leather goods to gold jewelry, toys and musical instruments. Yaren Müzik has a nice selection of authentic Turkish instruments at reasonable prices. Find the Ortakapı exit and you will see Dıramalılar, an ordinary looking pastry shop that makes yummy single-serving fruit tarts.
As you leave the Bazaar, make a right onto Osmaniye Caddesi where liver lovers will delight in Edirne’s special recipe at Oz Edirne Ciğercisi Nedim Usta. The clean and friendly restaurants atmosphere is bare bones and the only item on the menu is mouthwatering liver, breaded and deep fried according to an ancient Albanian recipe. Ali guests of Nedim’s, which has been in business for 20 years, are also served fresh yogurt, bread, tomato slices, raw onion and super hot and crispy red peppers to accompany the main course.
If liver is not to your liking, try Edirnes other famous single dish restaurant, Park Köftecisi Osman Usta, where only köfte (ground beef with onion and spices) is served in a plain and simple setting. The melt-in-your mouth grilled medallions are accompanied by a dish of slightly spicy red pepper puree (biber salça), onion, tomato slices and bread. Forty-year-old owner and chef, Osman, who has been in business since 1972, was recently invited to the posh Seasons restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel in Istanbul where he spent one week preparing his savory specialty for quite a different crowd of kofte lovers. Park Köftecisi Osman Usta is open daily from 11am to midnight.
Another peculiarity of Edirne is powdered cumin (kimyon), which you’ll find at most restaurants next to the salt and pepper on your table. It’s used as a garnish in Edirne the same way dried red pepper flakes (pul biber) are used throughout Istanbul.
By now you have caught a glimpse of the impressive Selimiye Camii which is across the park directly in front of Osmans restaurant on Yediyol Ağzı. The mosque, thought to be the finest work of Mimar Sinan, was constructed for Sultan Selim 11(1566-1574) and finished just after his death. Built atop a small hill, it was meant to dominate the city landscape and be visible from all approaches across the rolling Thracian landscape. The special construction of the broad, lofty dome - at 31.5 meters, wider than that of Istanbul’s Haghia Sophia by a few centimeters - gives the interior a spacious, airy and bright feeling. The interior furnishings of the Selimiye are exquisite, from the ornate wooden kürsü (prayer-readers platform) to the delicately carved marble mimber (pulpit) to the outstanding Iznik faience in and around the mihrab. The former medrese (Islamic school) of the mosque now houses the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum (open daily except Monday, from Sam to noon and 1pm to 5pm). Collections, labeled in Turkish only, are eclectic and inclusive, from weapons to chain mail through dervish arts and crafts to artifacts from the Balkan Wars and locally made household utensils.
Edirne’s main museum, the Archaeological Museum, across the street from the Selimiye Camii, houses prehistoric, Roman and Byzantine artifacts; textiles including embroidery and weaving; farm implements, dioramas and a carriage from Ottoman times.
A short walk (10-15 minutes) from the Selimiye Mosque along Mimar Sinan Caddesi brings you to the Muradiye Camii (1436), which was once the center of a Mevlevi (Whirling Dervish) lodge. Its interior is adorned with fine Iznik tiles while the exterior walls are decorated with the same immense and stunning calligraphy as the Eski Camii. Visible from the front of the mosque is the famous green lowland meadow of Sarayiçi (about 1km away) where the annual Kırkpmar oiled wrestling matches take place. Though not as ornate as the others, Muradiye Camii has a special appeal for its seclusion from the city center and a mystic, otherworldly atmosphere. If you are not up to walking to Muradiye, you can take a taxi (which may or may not be yellow) across from Selimiye on Mimar Sinan Caddesi for about 4 YTL.
Besides being home to some of the countries most magnificent mosques, Edirne still bears the marks of its early non-Muslim inhabitants most notably with the Great Synagogue which is at the end of Maarif Caddesi. Walk south along Maarif Caddesi to pass some fine, if fragile, old Ottoman wooden houses designed in an ornate style known as Edirnekari; as weli as abandoned churches.
The recently restored History of Medicine and Hospital Museum, which won the Council of Europe Museum Prize in 2004 and is located within the Beyazıt Külliyesi complex on the outskirts of the city, is not to be missed. The museum houses an impressive display of dioramas and information about holistic healing methods which were in use around the 15 century. Built by Ottoman physician and poet Shuuri Hasan Efendi (who died in 1639), all of the hospital’s services were rendered free of charge. At a time when in Europe the mentally ill were believed to be under the influence of the devil and frequently burned at the stake, patients in Beyazıt’s hospital were treated with music therapy and aromatherapy. The hospital staff included 10 singers and musicians playing the ney, violin, santur and ud. Certain modes of Turkish music were found to be particularly beneficial for different ailments.
If you are interested in hearing this type of music, Kudsi Erguner, a contemporary master flautist (nay) and Sufist has revived some of these nearly forgotten eastern musical traditions and recorded over a dozen albums. Another contemporary musician worth mentioning is Burhan Oçal, a native of Edirne, and a percussionist in the gypsy tradition. His latest album is called Trakya All-stars.
A pleasant 1km walk up river from the Beyazit Külliyesi is the ruins of the Eski Saray (Old Palace). The shortest and most scenic route is to walk along the raised flood-control levee; cars can follow a curving (and longer) paved road. The 15” century palace once rivaled Istanbul’s Topkapı in luxury and size. Today, little is left but a few ruins, some of which are off-limits in a military zone.
For a pleasant river walk follow Saraçlar Caddesi south and out of town. Walk under the railway line and across the Tunca Köprüsü (bridge), an Ottoman stone humpback bridge spanning the Tunca River. The Meriç Köprüsü, a longer Ottoman bridge, crosses the Meriç to the south.
To conclude your tour enjoy an outdoor meal or drink under the willow trees on the riverbank. The best restaurants and most scenic tea gardens are on the south side of the Meriç Bridge with fine sunset views of the river and bridge.
